Touring Singapore's WW2 sites

Kyt · Sep 3, 2008

Travel * NST Online

IT was Feb 15, 1942, the first day of the Chinese New Year but instead of the sound of firecrackers, the only audible reverberations in Singapore were the deafening explosions of bombs dropped by the advancing Japanese Imperial Army. Screams of terror were heard as air raid sirens sounded and the people ran for shelter. Early that morning, Lt General A.E. Percival called for an emergency war council in a room at the back of the command bunker on Fort Canning Hill, Singapore. The British later surrendered to the Japanese at the old Ford Motor Factory at Bukit Timah Road.

Inside The Battle

Today, visitors to the underground bunker can relive that historic day as they walk through 22 rooms recreated exactly as Percival and his fellow officers had left them. Using special audio and video effects, high quality animatronics and specially crafted figurines, visitors are quickly transported back to that fateful morning. The wailing of air raid sirens sounds real and you almost expect to see people running helter-skelter as they did some 70 years ago. Once the largest command centre and part of the British Malaya Command Headquarters, The Battle Box, as the place is now aptly called, is indeed a good starting point for those planning to explore the republic’s historic World War II sites. Visitors should spend at least one hour here and follow the interesting guided tour to fully appreciate the insightful exhibits and sound effects. Entrance fee is S$8 for adults, including audio headphones.

Military Command

Apart from the Surrender Room, visitors to this nine-metre deep bomb-proof shelter will also see how military personnel once worked at the Cipher Office, Gun Operations, Fortress Command, Telephone Exchange and Signal Office, trying to galvanise the combined efforts of the Australian, British, Indian and Malayan garrisons. Other interesting places to visit here are Keramat Iskandar Syah, Raffles Terrace, The Fort Gate, Fort Canning Green, The Spice Gardens and The Cafe at the Legends Fort Canning Park. The cafe (11am to 10pm), offering a selection of local, Asian and Western delights, is housed in the former Far East Command Centre, just a stone’s throw from The Battle Box.

War Trail Walkabout

Fort Canning Hill was first called Bukit Larangan or Forbidden Hill until 1819 when Stamford Raffles built his house there and called it Government Hill. This place got its current name after Viscount George Canning who was the Governor of India (1857-1862). During the Japanese Occupation, it was the Japanese Imperial Army’s Defence Headquarters under the command of Major-General Kawamura. Fort Canning Hill and The Battle Box are just two of the many World War II landmarks in the Civic District. The area, part of Raffles’ Town Plan in 1822, continues to be the seat of Singapore’s legislature and judiciary. Standing amongst grand monuments like the City Hall, Supreme Court and Parliament House are imposing memorials of war, remembering heroes, rebels and outstanding leaders. This walkabout trail, covering 10 important landmarks, takes about four hours and it is advisable to start early, just after breakfast and end just in time for lunch. Wear comfortable walking shoes and bring along an umbrella, as the tropical weather can be unpredictable.

War & Worship

Next stop is St Andrew’s Cathedral, near the City Hall MRT station. Walking down Fort Canning Hill, along Coleman Street towards this 173-year-old place of worship, visitors can retrace the route Percival took as he was said to have attended communion service at the cathedral before he surrendered. Holding the record as the oldest Anglican house of worship in Singapore, St Andrew’s Cathedral doubled as a makeshift hospital during the Occupation. There is a wide collection of World War II plaques on the walls, including a gold-plated inscription dedicated to HMS Prince of Wales and HMS Repulse, the two ill-fated British warships sunk off the coast of Kuantan, Pahang, by Japanese bombers on Dec 10, 1941.

Surrender Ceremony

Nearby is the City Hall building, the scene of many important World War II events such as the historic Japanese surrender ceremony on Sept 12, 1945. It was in the main hall of this majestic building, then known as the Municipal Hall, that Lord Louis Mountbatten, Supreme Allied Commander of Southeast Asia Command received the formal surrender from Lt General Seishiro Itagaki on behalf of Field Marshal Count Hisaichi Terauchi, Supreme Commander of the Southern Japanese Force. This was followed by a victory parade at the Padang, a large field fronting the City Hall building. It must have been an emotional day for all those who lived through nearly four years of tension, fear and suffering. For the Europeans interned at Changi, it was a personal vindication to see their Japanese tormentors being paraded in humility and shame.

More Monuments

Also worth visiting are the Indian National Army Monument, the Cenotaph and the Civilian War Memorial. The Indian National Army Monument was built in memory of the army formed with the support of the Japanese in Syonan-to, the Japanese name for Singapore, meaning Light Of The South. The original structure was demolished when the British returned to Singapore and a new one built in 1995 by the National Heritage Board. The Cenotaph and Civilian War Memorial at the Beach Road War Memorial Park, is in memory of fallen soldiers and civilians who died during the Occupation.

Heroes & Patriots

The Japanese rule saw the emergence of heroes and patriots like Lim Bo Seng. A pagoda-like memorial was erected at the Esplanade in honour of his sacrifices in helping the underground anti-Japanese resistance movement. The marble memorial has a solid bronze roof and four bronze lions at the sides. When the Japanese invaded China in 1937, Lim began raising funds to support the Chinese war effort. Later, as the threat of a similar invasion became a reality in Singapore, he recruited workers to prepare for its defence and helped to blow up the Causeway when British forces retreated from Malaya to Singapore. Fearing for his safety, the British forced him to leave when it looked like Singapore would fall. The British regrouped in India and set up Force 136, a spy network in Malaya. Its members, including Lim, were given extensive military training like shooting, jungle survival skills, guerrilla warfare and intelligence gathering, at the Far East Military School in Poona, India. A year after Singapore fell, Lim returned to Malaya and made his way to Ipoh, Perak, to head guerrilla operations there. His work came to an abrupt end when the Kempetai (Japanese Military Police) captured him in March 1944. He was interned at the Batu Gajah jail and died after three months of torture.

Liberation & Independence

Another war hero, Lt Adnan Saidi, died while defending the Pasir Panjang Ridge. He and the 42 members of the Malay Regiment platoon have not been forgotten. Adnan’s motto, biar putih tulang, jangan putih mata, became the rallying call of the regiment members who chose death over life without dignity and honour. Towards the end of the war, the Regiment played an important role in helping to liberate Malaya and Singapore. In recognition of its peacekeeping efforts during the Malayan Emergency and Malaya’s subsequent Independence on Aug 31, 1957, it was given the royal commission and is known until today as the Royal Malay Regiment.

Where To Stay

There are many places to stay in Singapore. These include:

Hotel 81 Bugis 31 Middle Road. Tel: +65 6339 8181. Website: + welcome to Hotel 81 + Email: customer_care@hotel81.com.sg From S$70. As there are over 20 hotels in the Hotel 81 chain, remember to tell the taxi driver “Hotel 81 along Middle Road between Shaw Towers & National Library”. Nearest MRT station is Bugis.

Hotel Royal@Queens 12 Queen Street. Tel: +65 6725 9988 Website: Singapore Hotel: Hotel Royal @ Queens, First Class Business Hotel in Singapore Email: info@royalqueens.com.sg From S$230. Nearest MRT station is City Hall.

Shangri-La Singapore 22 Orange Grove Road. Tel: +65 67373644 Website: Shangri-La Hotels and Resorts | Online Hotel Reservations For Luxury Deluxe Hotels and Resorts World Wide From S$390. Nearest MRT station is Orchard. The hotel provides shuttle service to Orchard Road.

How To Get There

Malaysia Airlines, Singapore Airlines, AirAsia and Tiger Airways fly daily to Singapore. From there, hop on the MRT and make your way to the City Hall MRT station (North South Line – Station NS25 or the East West Line – Station EW13) to get to all the places mentioned in this story except for Fort Canning Hill and The Battle Box. Take the MRT to Dhoby Ghaut Station (North South Line – Station NS24 or the North East Line – Station NE6) and walk uphill past Park Mall and towards Fort Canning Road to go to Fort Canning Hill and The Battle Box.

Contact

For more information, contact The Battle Box, 51 Canning Rise, Singapore 179872. Tel: +65 6333 0510; Fax: +65 6333 0590. Opening hours: 10am till 6pm daily, including Sundays and public holidays. Last admission is at 5pm. Or contact Singapore Tourism Board, Menara Keck Seng, 203 Jalan Bukit Bintang, Kuala Lumpur. Tel: 03-2142 7133 Fax: 03-2148 7133 Email: info@stb.org.my
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Antipodean Andy · Sep 7, 2008

Will get there one of these days and venture beyond the airport!

Kohima · Sep 9, 2008

Kyt,

Great review & info, Singapore is 1 of the trips I have planned, having an IGS group to a Gnr who is buried in the mass grave at the Princess Alexandria hospital.

Regards

simon

spidge · Sep 10, 2008

Kohima said: ↑

Kyt,
having an IGS group to a Gnr who is buried in the mass grave at the Princess Alexandria hospital.

Regards

simon
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That massacre was the promise of worse atrocities to come.

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Touring Singapore's WW2 sites

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